Pacomarca & Beyond: Alpaca, Sustainability and a Changing Peru

After a long-awaited return, I’m recently back from a deeply inspiring trip to Peru - home to the world’s finest alpaca and the roots of my own alpaca journey. I travelled from the coastal bustle of Lima to the high altitudes of the Andes, reconnecting with long-time partners, meeting new makers and alpaca yarn specialists, and witnessing first-hand the evolving landscape of this remarkable industry.

I was thrilled to visit the Pacomarca Alpaca Research Station, a remote farm at about 4000m altitude and home to about 2500 alpacas.  170km from Arequipa doesn't sound so far, but the bumpy journey by road takes 6-7 hours.  Pacomarca is a major centre for research into alpaca genetic traceability, ethical breeding and alpaca fibre innovation.  It's also leading a genetic conservation program called Yanapaco to preserve and improve the population of pure black alpacas in Peru, which were previously under threat of extinction - black alpaca fleece is not favoured by the yarn industry as it cannot be dyed easily.   Pacomarca is selectively breeding over 1,000 black alpacas to enhance fibre quality and ensure the long-term sustainability of this rare and culturally significant colour variant.  

I had the opportunity to visit one of Pacomarca's senior Alpaqueros, (Alpaca Herdsman), Señor Martin and his wife who are living in a eco-farmstead designed and built by Pacomarca (which is owned by Grupo Inca, a major alpaca yarn producer), as a prototype for other alpaca farmers.  I’m delighted that the alpaca yarn companies are thinking sustainably and making efforts to safeguard the alpaca industry for the future.  I felt honoured to pay witness to the early stages of this important new programme.

The Herdsman’s Cottage: Building a Future for Alpaca Breeders

Alpaca shepherds live and work in some of the Peru's most challenging remote environments. Their livelihoods are vital to the future of the alpaca yarn industry, the preservation of alpaca genetics and alpaca fibre quality.  It’s part of Peru’s rich cultural heritage, but the future of this way of life is increasingly uncertain.

Recognising the need for change, Pacomarca launched The Herdsman’s Cottage initiative - an effort to improve living conditions by providing ecological homes, designed with both practicality and sustainability in mind.

The older generations, who have spent their lives on the land, are often resistant to change. Yet the younger generation - tempted by urban lifestyles and modern expectations - is leaving the mountains for cities in search of better opportunities, education, and comfort.

The Herdsman’s Cottages aim to reverse that trend by offering a vision for a better life in the highlands.  The cottages have locally sourced materials, including heating and solar energy, running water and eco-friendly sewage systems (bio-digesters), double glazing for insulation, plant nurseries or guinea pig enclosures for food and income.

By supporting initiatives like this, we help create real, tangible change - preserving the future of alpaca farming and strengthening the communities who make it possible.

Understanding Fibre Quality in Alpaca

Dr Alan Cruz and his team who kindly hosted me shared details of their current research into alpaca fibre and the link between medullation (hollow sections within alpaca fibre) and softness, and reduced guard hair. 

Through extensive recent research and fibre analysis of huacaya alpaca fibre (Huacaya is the most common type of alpaca), experts at PACOMARCA have identified a key factor in determining the softness of alpaca fibre.  

It was previously thought that all alpaca fibre was “medullated,” meaning they have a hollow core. However, research has shown that it’s not quite so simple, that there are different types of medullation.  Sometimes it’s continuous throughout the fibre shaft, sometimes it stops and starts - with intermittent medullation.  Sometimes it is absent altogether.  While a small amount of medullation is natural and even useful in helping the fleece insulate, the research has shown that too much medullation appears to be linked with coarser, stiffer “guard hairs” that bend less when in contact with the skin.  This results in itchiness or ‘prickle factor’.  You may have noticed this in cheaper alpaca products like the kind you get from some Peruvian tourist markets.

What’s now understood is that the ideal alpaca fleece contains a healthy balance of non-medullated and partially medullated fibres -fine, flexible fibres that feel soft against the skin but still offer warmth and durability.

This research will help breeders focus their efforts on improving herd genetics to produce finer, more consistent fleece - with less unwanted guard hair. The result? Better-quality alpaca yarns and alpaca garments, and higher earnings for the communities who raise these incredible animals.

I also enjoyed visiting my alpaca sock makers, alpaca yarn manufacturers and exploring new artisan studios.  The Peruvian alpaca wool industry is becoming increasingly sophisticated, with greater yarn diversity and growing recognition of sustainable processing methods - changes I was so pleased to see.

Alpaca remains one of the most sustainable fibres on earth.  Alpacas tread lightly, eat delicately, excrete little and consume far less water than any other farm animal.  See my other article on the topic 6 Reasons why Alpaca are good for our Planet.  While the alpaca market trends toward blends and recycled PET, I have deep reservations, particularly about microplastic-shedding synthetics produced in China that lack transparency and longevity.  For me, alpaca’s integrity and provenance are non-negotiable and for now, I’m concentrating on 100% Alpaca!

There’s so much more to say - the warmth of the people, the unforgettable meals, the quiet strength of Andean culture - but I’ll save that for another post!